Saturday 13 September 2008

Construction and More Toilet Humour


The amount of construction going on in Bahrain and Saudi Arabia is astonishing.

New offices, apartments and shopping malls are shooting up everywhere and the government are spending huge wedges of cash building roads, infrastructure, power plants, desalinisation plants and oil refineries. I’ve been told that 75% of the world’s cranes are presently in the Middle East!

I know things back in the UK are not so good economically and that the country is on the verge of recession, but quite the opposite is true out here. The high oil price means that the Middle East has staggering amounts of money to spend and the present boom is expected to last for another 10 years.

Consider for a moment the Bahrain Royal Family. Now Bahrain is a small country, just 30m long by about 10m wide and has a population of just 500,000. However, the King and his 2 sons have a personal wealth of US$ 900 Billion between them!

So the Arabs are investing very heavily in their infrastructure. The Arab News announced today that the value of construction projects commissioned within the Middle East in 2008 is expected to total over US$ 2 Trillion!!! (That’s right folks…that’s Billion spelt with a T!!) When you consider that the total government spending in the UK is about £600 Billion a year it kind of puts things in perspective.

When I see the amount of construction going on I can’t help but think that It's amazing what you can get done with slave labour these days.

Slave labour? Well there's plenty of anecdotal evidence of actual slavery going on in remote parts of Saudi Arabia. But generally the immigrant construction workers get a pretty raw deal. Most are Pilipino, Indian, Pakistani or Nigerian. If they are lucky they earn US$ 60 a month, and for that they have to work 12 hours a day 6 days a week out in the sun.

Now I know what you are thinking, even at US$ 60 a month they are earning three times what they could in their own country….and you would be correct. However, the workers have to live in appalling conditions and are treated terribly by their employers. Most only get 2 weeks holiday a year and sometimes don’t get paid for weeks on end. To cap things off, their Passports are kept by their employer so they cannot leave the country unless their employer agrees.

Last year in Dubai construction workers attempted to strike because they weren't being paid. Some were so desperate they walked out into the crazy traffic so that their suicide would look like an accident. Families only receive compensation for accidental deaths.

This is not an isolated incident either. In Bahrain, there are regular strikes and protests by workers. Generally the police go in with guns and sticks and end up killing a few of the disgruntled workers.

Last night I was withdrawing money from an ATM in one of Bahrain’s many fabulous malls and two foreign national guys (Pilipino) came up and stood right next to me. Their close proximity was breaking an unwritten ATM rule so as I was completing my transaction I turned to give them the patented Boydell scowl.

When I'd finished one of them made a gesture with his card so I nodded my head and waved him towards the ATM. But he then shook his head and handed his ATM card to me. I realised this wasn't a gift, he didn’t understand English or Arabic (the only two languages the ATM offered) and so he needed my help.

So I ended up entering his pin number, showing him his balance and then helping him withdraw all of his money. After an embarrassed thank you he went immediately to the post office next door to (presumably) wire his money back home.

This is one of the many subtle ways in which people can end up feeling trapped and alienated.
Here is another example. Imagine you speak neither English nor Arabic, you're in the mall and you need the toilet. You live in Saudi Arabia, a country where almost all men wear ghutras (the "tea towel", if you're western and you need a hint) and women cover their faces. You look at this picture on the toilet door and wonder "is this for men or for women?"


Did you get it right or would you have been running for your life from the Muttawa?


The only uncovered woman in Saudi Arabia and she's on the door of a toilet. It's a funny old world.
Is it just me, or does she look like she's in excruciating pain? Is she suffering from constipation or from the Muttawa, I wonder?

Wouldn't it be less confusing to just use the following sign?


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